How to Train a Puppy Not to Jump and Bite

Learning how to train a puppy not to jump and bite is one of the first challenges most new dog owners face, and it can feel like an uphill battle. One moment your puppy is curled up asleep, and the next they're launching themselves at your legs and sinking their tiny teeth into your hands.

You're not alone in this. Puppy jumping and biting are among the most common concerns new owners face, and the good news is that with a little knowledge and consistency, these behaviours can absolutely be managed.

This post walks you through why puppies jump and bite, what's normal, what to avoid, and the practical techniques that actually make a difference. Whether you're dealing with a manic eight-week-old or a persistent six-month-old, there's something here for you.

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Jumping and biting are entirely natural behaviours for puppies, even if they feel anything but pleasant when you're on the receiving end of them.

Puppies explore the world through their mouths. Before they come to live with you, they've spent their early weeks wrestling with their littermates, nipping at each other during play, and learning through that physical interaction. When they arrive in your home, they bring those habits with them. They don't yet know that human skin is far more sensitive than a sibling's fur, and they haven't learnt the social rules that apply in their new environment.

Jumping up is similarly instinctual. In the wild, young animals jump up towards the faces of adults as a greeting. It's a way of seeking attention, affection, and food. Your puppy is simply following the same instinct. To them, jumping up works: it gets a reaction from you, which is all they're after.

Understanding this context is important, because it helps you approach the behaviour without frustration. Your puppy isn't being naughty; they're being a puppy!

Most puppies go through their peak biting phase between eight weeks and five months of age. This is when they're most actively exploring the world and still learning bite inhibition, which is the ability to control the pressure of their bite.

Between three and five months, many puppies also begin teething, which can intensify the urge to chew and nip. Their gums are uncomfortable, and biting provides relief. This phase can feel relentless, but it does pass.

By around five to seven months, most puppies begin to naturally calm down as their adult teeth come through and they develop better impulse control. That said, without guidance from you, biting and jumping habits can persist well beyond puppyhood, which is why early training matters so much.

If you've noticed that your puppy seems to flip a switch, going from calm to frantic and biting while zipping around in what seems like a frenzy, you may have witnessed what dog owners affectionately call the "zoomies," or more formally, a Frenetic Random Activity Period (FRAP).

These bursts of energy are completely normal and typically happen at predictable times: in the early morning, after meals, or in the early evening. Your puppy isn't being aggressive; they're simply releasing pent-up energy.

However, during these episodes, biting can become more intense because your puppy is overstimulated. The best approach is to:

It's also worth noting that overtired puppies can behave similarly. Just like small children, when puppies are exhausted, they can become cranky and bite more. If your puppy's biting is worse than usual, check whether they've had enough rest.

The most important principle is this: don't reward the behaviour, even accidentally. Puppies repeat behaviours that get a response, and any attention, including telling them off, can act as a reward. For a broader look at this topic, our guide on how to stop a dog jumping up at people covers the behaviour across all ages and stages.

This is one of the most effective strategies, though it requires patience. When your puppy jumps up at you, turn your back, cross your arms, and completely withdraw your attention. Don't speak to them, make eye contact, or push them down. Wait until all four paws are on the floor, then calmly reward them with praise or a treat.

Over time, your puppy will learn that jumping gets them nothing, while keeping their paws on the floor gets them what they want: your attention.

Teach your puppy to "sit" as a default greeting. A dog can't jump and sit at the same time, so asking for a sit before giving any attention is an elegant solution. If you haven't yet worked on this cue, our step-by-step guide on how to train a dog to sit is a great place to start. Practise consistently and ask every visitor to do the same, so your puppy doesn't learn that jumping works with some people but not others.

If your puppy is going through a particularly boisterous phase, management tools like a baby gate or keeping your puppy on a lead during greetings can help prevent jumping from being practised in the first place. The less they rehearse the behaviour, the easier it is to break.

Learning how to train your puppy not to jump up takes repetition and consistency. Here's a simple process to follow:

When your puppy bites during play, the most effective response is to let out a calm, firm "ouch" or "no" and immediately stop all interaction. Walk away or turn your back. This mimics what their littermates would do, which is to yelp and disengage, and teaches your puppy that biting ends the fun.

Other helpful strategies include:

Tapping or flicking your puppy on the nose isn't recommended, and most modern, evidence-based trainers advise strongly against it.

Here's why: physical punishment, even in mild forms, can damage the bond of trust you're building with your puppy. It can cause fear and anxiety, which may actually make biting worse over time, because a frightened dog is more likely to nip than a calm, secure one. It also teaches your puppy to be wary of hands near their face, which can cause problems during grooming, veterinary visits, and daily handling.

Positive reward training (rewarding the behaviours you want to see) is far more effective and creates a happier, more confident dog. Stick with redirection and withdrawal of attention when biting happens, and reward calm, gentle behaviour generously.

Physically pushing your puppy away when they bite might seem like a natural response, but it can actually backfire. For many puppies, being pushed is exciting and feels like play. You may find that pushing them away simply encourages them to come back more enthusiastically.

Instead of pushing, try these alternatives:

The goal is to communicate clearly that biting ends the interaction, not to engage in a back-and-forth that the puppy might interpret as a game. If biting seems to be escalating beyond normal puppy behaviour, it's worth reading our guide on how to stop aggressive behaviour in dogs to understand when to seek further support.

It's not just about reacting to unwanted behaviour. It's also about proactively building the habits you want to see. Prevention and positive reinforcement go hand in hand, and consistency is the thread that ties everything together.

Training takes time and there will be setbacks. Try not to feel disheartened, because progress is rarely linear. What matters is that you keep showing up with patience, clarity, and a consistent approach. Some puppies respond quickly; others take longer. If you're struggling, or if the biting is particularly intense, it may be worth seeking support from a qualified trainer who uses positive, reward-based methods.

If you'd like to deepen your understanding of puppy behaviour and feel truly confident in your approach to training, the Puppy Training Diploma Course from Centre of Excellence is an excellent place to start. Designed for all levels, whether you're a first-time puppy owner or simply looking to brush up, the course covers everything from the basics of puppy behaviour to practical, positive training techniques you can apply straight away. Enrol today for just £29.